Fair warning—this blog post may contain images that will have you dreaming of a getaway to Lake Garda, Italy, sooner than you planned! I ended up there spontaneously, searching for a sunny spot to unwind. It had been at least 20 years since my last visit. Once with my sister and once with my mum. And this time it was just as incredible as I remembered.
That said, cycling in Italy turned out to be quite a challenge, especially after all the smooth and well maintained paths I had enjoyed elsewhere!
But read more below… and enjoy the pictures!
Lake Garda
Lake Garda is one of the largest lakes in Italy, surrounded by lots of pretty little towns (from Garda to Sirmione). Sitting just below the Alps and close to Verona, it is one of the most popular holiday destinations. Especially for Northern Europeans. Everybody I know has been to Lake Garda at least once. And why wouldn’t you? But, as you can imagine, it can get quite crowded. Except for this year, given the COVID scenario (have you heard??).
For me, it was exactly the reason to go there now. Perfect weather and no tourists!
I booked a really nice Hotel Apartment ‘Relais Madergnago’ (Check out the accommodation here) in the small town Desenzano, at the lower left side of the lake. I really liked that part of the lake, away from the camp sites, and therefore more local. My plan was to relax, swim and cycle for 5 days.
Cycling in Italy
I had big ideas for my cycling days around Lake Garda. After all, I have done a few trips around lakes in the past few weeks already (e.g. Potsdam and Schwerin), so I was looking forward to do the same here.
Well, my advice about cycling in Italy. Don’t do it. The bike ways aren’t really proper bike ways (no matter what you read on the internet) and the cars don’t really care about you. As a cyclist that is. In fact, they actually get more annoyed and very aggressive with you. At least that was the case in my experience. And after cycling for over 7000km in 9 countries (from France to Spain, Belgium, Germany and more), I’d like to think I have a pretty good comparison.
Cycling in Italy was really no fun at all (and scary at times). Unless, of course, you cycle from your hotel/camping place a short distance, along the boulevard, to Garda, to get ice cream or pizza. That is different and quite pretty.
Swimming and relaxing
Given the disappointment with the cycling, it looked like I had to swim instead. Not a bad compromise, as the lake has beautiful crystal clear waters. It was amazing. And even though I preferred to swim in the lake, than the pool, I still spent most evenings at my private deck, enjoying local wine and food. And for that alone, it is always worth coming back to Italy. It was a perfect holiday at Lake Garda.
Of course I did a short trip to revisit Verona as well. It has been over a year since my last trip there. And I could finally stand next to Juliet without the crowds. What a year… read it all here!
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