I was back in Istanbul, the multicultural metropolis of Turkey. I think you see things differently the second time around. On my first trip to Istanbul, with my dad, I had an amazing time and really enjoyed exploring the city.
There is lots to see and do in Istanbul (I wrote a blog post about it here, back in 2019), so, this time, I was ready to see some new neighbourhoods of Istanbul.
Has the big city changed much in the last few years? Let’s see.
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The colourful houses of Balat
The best way to discover a big city, for me, is by foot. You find streets, shops and areas that you might not see otherwise. Sitting in a cab and being stuck in traffic doesn’t look too appealing. And I like walking.
So, on my first day I was heading towards the Chora Mosque (Kariye Camii). It is supposed to be a stunning mosque with some old frescoes. Given the direction I walked past one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Istanbul Balat, located in the Fatih district. I have read about the colourful houses there, so I wanted to have a look.
What a pretty and urban area it is. Perfect for some delicious ice cream, lunch and more ice cream. After all, I needed the strength to get up the hill to the Chora Mosque. As I was walking through the very local and suburban areas, buying ‘white pepper’ for 1/10 of the price that they offer at the big Bazaar, I also felt a little bit out of place. The locals weren’t used to seeing tourists in that part of town. I received a lot of shy smiles.. especially from the children.
Once I reached the Chora Mosque, I realised it was closed for renovations. Shame! But it was still a great discovery walk.
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Istanbul – the city
My second day walk was towards the long bridge at the Ortakoy Pier, that connects the European and Asian part of Istanbul. Originally I wanted to catch a ferry but I would have had to wait for over an hour so I caught a tram up to Kabatas and walked.
Walking back via the luxurious shopping street Tesvikiye in Nisantasi towards the Taksim square was quite enjoyable. Istanbul has a lot of parks where you can rest and enjoy a local Gozleme (Turkish pancake). I walked past the ancient ‘Aqueduct of Valens’, many many mosques and plenty of shops. Did I mention it is a big city??
After all this walking I was quite glad to be back at my hotel room, resting my legs. I walked 40km in two days.
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Istanbul – The Multicultural Metropolis
So, is the multicultural metropolis still worth the hipe? For sure, it is Istanbul after all. However, since covid a lot has changed. It feels like after two years of covid everybody is now trying to catch up, making the city more expensive. Whether it is food, entry tickets or souvenirs. If you are a tourist you pay up.
Furthermore, many of the iconic places are still under renovation so you can’t see them in their full glory. Unfortunately the Basillica Cistern was also closed, due to renovations, and the Blue Mosque is still being restored, so a lot of it is still covered up.
On a positive note, the Hagia Sophia has been changed back into a mosque, which means the entry is free. However, because it is a mosque, the entire original floor is now covered by a green rug. Due to this, I find the inside looses a little bit of the magical moment when you enter. The upstairs was blocked off as well.
In a way I am glad I was here a few years ago, seeing the main tourist attractions already. Especially the Hagia Sophia is a stunning and very unique mosque.
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My Istanbul Trip Summary
I walked a lot in Istanbul. It is quite a hilly metropolis and after three days I felt like I did my workout. It is an amazing city with a wide range of neighbourhoods. Istanbul is a must see for everybody. Would I come back again? For sure, but most likely not for a while. It is a very hectic place.
From the traffic jams, to the crowds (yes, the tourists and cruise ships are back), there is lots happening in Istanbul. I think I prefer the peacefulness of Antalya and Kas much more. Although I did enjoy walking all the hills in Istanbul, discovering new places.
I think my legs are now ready for hiking in Cappadocia!
(post 176)
