Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia and a very busy city sitting at the junction of the Mekong and the Tonlé Sap rivers. It was much more intense than Siem Reap and I didn’t have a good first impression. But who can blame me after a relaxing two weeks in Siem Reap? However Phnom Penh should be on your list to stop, especially if you would like to visit the Killing fields of Cambodia. More on that below…
The city of Phnom Penh at the moment, is, what Bangkok was 20 years ago. A dirty and overcrowded place, rubbish everywhere and local food stalls covering the streets and pedestrian paths. It smells quite bad. Especially the markets! I just can’t walk through them! Not to mention the hassling tuk tuk drivers and women with their cute kids trying to sell you anything.
Accommodation
The first night in Phnom Penh I booked myself into a boutique hotel that was close to the river. But also right in the middle of the red light district. Lady bars everywhere! Upps… that certainly didn’t help with my first impression. The hotel was ok but didn’t have windows in the room so I found another hotel for the next two nights. My minimum standards of a nice accommodation have now been changed to not only have a private bathroom, but also have a window in the room. It is all about perspective, isn’t it?
Food in Phnom Penh
Yes, Phnom Penh is full of restaurants. On my map they are literally everywhere. But once you see the restaurant you really don’t want to eat there. Given my location I struggled a bit at the beginning. It took me 1.5 days to find the perfect dining stop, THE BIG EASY (link).
The Big Easy is a Hostel/Restaurant/Bar that opened in Phnom Penh only a few days ago but has a spot in Sihanoukville already. It was so great to have sweet potatoes again! In addition it tasted fresh and delicious and the people there were very friendly. And Australian! So it became my go to for the next 1.5 days in Phnom Penh.
Killing fields of Cambodia
Phnom Penh was the hub for both the later day Khmer Empire and the French colonialists so there is some history to find here. The Genocide museum and the Killing Fields of Cambodia were on my list to see. I never knew too much about the history of this side of the world but that’s why travelling is so great. Learning about all the different countries and their stories.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a museum in Phnom Penh chronicling the Cambodian genocide. The site is a former high school which was used as Security Prison 21 by the Khmer Rouge regime from its rise to power in 1975 to its fall in 1979. There are really not many words needed to describe what happened there, it is quite unthinkable. If you are interested you can read more about it here.
Choeung Ek Killing Fields
Choeung Ek is the site of a former orchard and mass grave of victims of the Khmer Rouge – killed between 1975 and 1979 – about 17 kilometres south of Phnom Penh. It is a tourist attraction and best known as The Killing Fields, where the Khmer Rouge regime executed over one million people between 1975 and 1979. In many very confronting ways. Most of the graves have been found by the Vietnamese soldiers and there is still a clear visible sign of the mass grave locations.
Both sites are certainly a remembrance to the bitter past of Cambodia. And as in every historical war times there is always the question: ‘But Why? How could this happen?’
However I must say that for me visiting those two sites wasn’t as confronting as visiting Auschwitz and Birkenau (maybe because I am from Europe?). But it is nevertheless a past of Cambodia that is beyond belief. Take your time when visiting those sites and make sure you get the audio guide tour.
Time to leave Phnom Penh and head towards the coast line of Cambodia.
Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville by Bus
Three nights was definitely enough to visit Phnom Penh and I was once again on a bus, this time heading to the Cambodian Coast and the town Sihanoukville. I booked a VIP Van with an estimated travel time of 4 hours. However, no matter what bus line you choose it will definitely take 6 hours. The traffic is pretty bad all the way there. Full of trucks with Ship Containers going from the coast inland and vice versa. Be prepared for a long and hot drive.
Once arrived I headed straight to THE BIG EASY for some great food again. Delicious! Sihanoukville (more to that next blog) was only a quick stop over to get to the island Koh Rong. I am definitely looking forward to some islands and beach time next! Stay tuned.. xx
