Florac is a cute little town and as promised dinner in Florac was great. I had an amazing pizza once again, right on time at 7pm. The next (and final) days of my Robert Louis Stevenson Hike are exiting and stunning. Hiking through the Cevennes National Park to get to my final destination (Ales), was a great way to the overall hike (read part 1 and part 2). Although I had to conquer a few more hills, passing lots of trees. (Read the offical route here).
Florac – Cassagnas
Day 8 and it was quite an easy 20km that took me through the deep Forrest. I didn‘t pass any villages nor roads. There were just a few houses here and there, otherwise me and the forrest. And sometimes other hikers. I think this part of the path used to be an old train track that has been converted into a proper hiking trail. There were definitely a few tunnels to walk through. I wonder if Mr. Stevenson walked exactly the same path in 1878? Did he have to look out for trains back then?
Close to Cassagnas the forrest opened up and the view was stunning. The mountains of fern made the landscape very different to the previous days again. Just beautiful!
Hiking the Cevennes National Park continues
The brochure that I collected at the beginning was great for giving me a list of accommodations at each village. Not all of them are listed on booking.com, especially the private guest houses. In Cassagnas I rang a few places but only one had a bedroom available so I booked it. It was right on top of a steep hill so for the last 20min of my hike I went up and up. But hey, nothing I couldn‘t handle anymore.
The guest house was a private house that belonged to an older couple and bedroom was within their living space. Usually it is a seperate area, so with nowhere to go I spend the whole afternoon in the room. Resting and watching Netflix movies until it was dinner time.
To be honest, based on their unwelcoming hospitality when I arrived (I felt like I was imposing on their private area but maybe it was the language barrier) I was expecting something basic for dinner but the food was amazing! It was a very traditional french menu with lots and lots of butter (not the healthiest option but after all the walking I didn’t mind). Very tasty!
At the dinner there was another french couple and one guy, all hikers and all french. However the communication somehow worked (with my few french words) and it was a nice way to finish the day once again. That‘s one of the great things about this hike. Experiencing the local life and being flexible enough to adjust to situations that you may not be expecting.
Cassagnas – Saint-Étienne-Vallée-Française
Day 9 and I had 24km to walk to Saint-Étienne-Vallée-Française. Well, my guest house that I booked was just before the town so a little bit less.
The trail took me through a higher mountain today but after the last two mostly flat days I didn‘t mind a bit of a hill for a change. Today the walk felt quite easy on my body. I think I have toughened up enough now to just keep going?!
After 14km I hit the first village, Saint-Germain-de-Calberte and it was time for a coffee and a lunch snack. Crackers anyone? After that it was only 7km more down hill until I arrived at my guesthouse ‚La Ferme da Patience‘ and was warmly greeted by a happy couple. They offered me cold water (I must say they were the first ones who did that) and showed me my room and the dinner menu. Sounded delicious! I only had to wait for 6 hours but I knew it would be worth waiting for.
Dinner time
It was dinner time and funnily one of the couples from last night’s guest house stayed at the same place as me again. So together with the lovely hosts we all had a great evening. Eating lots of tasty food and chatting in french and english and our hands! There was lots of laughter! Great experience and a nice place to stay at.
Saint-Étienne-Vallée-Française – Saint-Jean-du-Gard
It is day 10 in my Robert Louis Stevenson hike. I have now walked twice as long as my Königs-Ludwig-Walk in April. I am doing pretty well. Today is a short day of only 15km. I bought a baguette for the road and set off through the forrest to Saint-Jean-du-Gard. It was again a little bit hilly but easy.
After hiking the Cevennes National Park and french forest for 3 hours, it was exciting to see the first glimpse of houses. It always meant I was getting closer to the end of my Robert Louis Stevenson Hike. That said, Saint-Jean-du-Gard unfortunately is not a very pretty town in my opinion. Everybody was talking about this little town so much, I was expecting something nice. However my impression was that it is quite run down and very dirty. Different to what I have seen so far during my hike.
I can’t believe I have one more day to go. I am running into a few hikers now that I have met along the way. We are all going the same way. However most of the hikers (the ones I have spoken to anyway) finish their walk here in Saint-Jean-du-Gard. I am walking one more day, 27km across another (smaller) mountain, to Ales. Go girl!
Saint-Jean-du-Gard – Ales
I made it! After 11 days and another 27km today I have finally arrived in Ales and in my hotel room! I am sooo proud of myself and my achievement. I must admit, this morning I had a very very brief second of wishing I could take a bus rather than walking. But my eagerness to finish my set goal took over quickly and so off I went. It was a nice walk. I took a path that led me through a few smaller mountains, tiny little french villages and lots of forrest area (I guess I was, after all, hiking the Cevennes National Park).
Those past days were definitely a perfect way to finish my Robert Louis Stevenson hike. And believe me, I was happy to arrive in Ales after 5 hours.
The End of the Robert Louis Stevenson Hike
I will now rest and spend a few more days in France exploring and tasting lots of different wines. It seems like this was my last hike in Europe for this year (2018). As I have done a few different hikes I will create a seperate area in the top menu bar for you to find them all with one click! Off to explore Ales now and find a nice place to dine! Well deserved I would say! xx
