The Robert Louis Stevenson Trail GR-70 goes through different areas of southern France. The Velay (my previous blog), the Gévaudan, a historical part in the Mont Lozère area and the (part 3).
This hike goes through the Gévaudan and the Mont Lozère area and I am calling this part the mountains. It describes the last 4 days of my Robert Louis Stevenson hike very well. I am basically crossing the mountains!
(See official map of the Stevenson Trail GR-70 here)
Langogne – Cheylard-l’Évêque – Chasseradès
Day 4 of the hike and my Birthday (11th Sep). And as I am in France there is no better way to start my birthday than a treat from the local Artisan patisserie. A choc croissant (or two). Super Delicious! With a 30km day hike ahead I didn’t worry about the calories too much.
Today was a long day. I decided to cut the official Robert Louis Stevenson hike again and headed straight down to Chasseradès. This trail went through the mountain ‘Le Moure de la Gardille’. The walk to Cheylard-l’Évêque was 13km and easy done. Already up hill and with a further 14km to go I set my mind on a long but easy hike. Until I stood in front a big fence that locked my path. So I had no other choice than to walk around this what seemed like very big fenced area. It added approx. 4km to my day. First a steep downhill to then go back up hill again. Phew! My body certainly has been challenged today.
After walking 24km already, the last 7km were long but at least down hill. I was happy to be at the hotel in the little town Chasseradès.
Let’s follow the Stevenson Trail GR-70 tomorrow again.
Chasseradès – Belvezet – Bagnols-les-Bains
The stay in Chasseradès was a little bit overpriced in comparison to the other places. But it did the purpose and the home cooked dinner was quite nice. Day 5 and this walk is quite straight forward. Bagnols-les-Bains was my final stop as I couldn’t find a good accomodation in Le Breymard (the official trail stop). I also didn’t mind walking the extra distance (3km) on that day. 24km in total.
I am not sure if I mentioned this already but I am using an app for all my travels called maps.me. It is a map that I can use without internet and it shows literally every road and trail there is (even the Stevenson Trail GR-70). No matter how small the tracks are. The downside when planning a hike based on this map, however, is, that I sometimes have to walk through wilderness as well as climb over fences to stay on track. Oh well, part of the adventure though!
Love this Robert Louis Stevenson Hike so far!
So today, after a few unnecessary zig zag routes I decided the quickest way for me to get to Belvezet was to follow the train track. And so I did. All the way to Belvezet. It was quick and straight forward and only one train drove past. Of course being safe was my priority.
Then I made new friends! Two very cute donkeys! I asked them to come along with me to carry my 8kg backpack but they didn’t want to.
Bagnols-les-Bains
With no shops around for the whole walk I lived on crackers for the morning and I knew I could have lunch in Bagnols-les-Bains. Well, there was the issue with the lunch siesta again. Not to mention that the bakery was closed Wednesdays afternoon so no baguette either. The only and tiny grocery store had nothing decent to eat so restaurant dinner it was. I didn’t mind that alternavtive.
In France the restaurants open at 7pm which would be ok usually, but after a long hike waiting until 7pm is quite challenging. I was soo hungry I sat down at the local restaurant at 6pm and waited until I could order a Pizza. The pizza came 5min past 7pm. It was delicious!
The place I booked for the night (L’Atelier S) was great. Especially the breakfast was delicious with home made granola, local youghurt and pancakes. Perfect to get some strengths for the high mountain to walk that day.
Bagnols-les-Bains – Finiels – Le Pont-de-Montvert
Day 6 of my Stevenson Trail GR-70 hike, and, officially, the longest hike I have done so far. It was also the highest mountain to walk in terms of altitude. The peak of the Finiels mountain was 1669m (I started at around 1000m). 14km up the hill, up and up I went. It was a slow uphill so pretty doable. The scenery was stunning. From the little village Saint-Julien-du-Tournel to the Château du Tournel. It makes the walk very special and enjoyable.
Not long after I was in a forrest following the road to Mont Lozère. The peak (Finiels summit) is basically a ski area and after a coffee and lunch break I walked along the top of the ski slope. Loved it. Such a different landscape and the nothingness was beautiful! I wanted to take a photo at every corner.
After 14km of slow uphill it went pretty quick and steep downhill until I finally arrived at Le Pont-de-Montvert.
It was the first town since my hike that felt alive when entering it. Cafe shops open and people (many hikers) everywhere (did they do the full Robert Louis Stevenson Hike?). It was nice and very welcoming. A small town with a great vibe in a great location.
After a shower and rest, it was time for dinner. It was a big hike today so I thought I deserve a feast. I bought a fresh baguette, local cheese and pâté and the bar owner let me eat my dinner at their table as long as I ordered some wine. Done deal! It was the perfect finish to a big day and I slept for 10 hours that night.
Le Pont-de-Montvert – Florac
I started very early this morning and today (day 7) I walked the route 998 to Florac. It seemed the simplest and quickest way to get there. No hills, no obstacles. And after the big day yesterday + 6 days of walking already, I admit my feet were a little bit tired. So with 20km to walk I went for an easy option and it was a great road to follow. There is hardly any traffic and I walked around the mountains, mostly downhill. Florac sits at 540m altitude, which is the lowest I have been for a while.
During the hike I passed the first little town, Cocurès after 14km. Perfect spot for a coffee. I was planning to get some lunch at the supermarket in Florac and I can’t believe I missed it by one minute before they closed for their lunch siesta again. Can you see a repeating scenario here? Crackers it is again. I call it my forced diet. I think it will be a great dinner feast tonight though!
P.S. I am sitting in a local coffee shop in Florac while writing this. And I still didn’t have a shower as I am waiting to get into my room. Siesta time for France! Four more days to go!
