It was time to go on my next journey through Laos followed by Vietnam. After my Cambodia bus trips I decided on the Bangkok to Laos overnight train to begin the next stage of my journey. So I booked myself a private sleeping cabin and 11 hours later arrived near the border of Laos. After a quick change into the local train to get me across the border, the immigration check and a 30min taxi ride, I was finally in Vientiane, Laos just in time for breakfast.
Travel tip: Be aware of the ‘all-in-one’ ticket taking you across the border to Vientiane. It is much more expensive and takes supposedly twice as long.
Vientiane
Vientiane is the capital city of Laos on the banks of the Mekong River near the border with Thailand. It is said to have a mix of French-colonial architecture (although I am not sure if I noticed it too much) with many Buddhist temples. The golden, 16th-century Pha That Luang is a national symbol. This time I wasn’t inspired to see too many tourist spots and I avoided them. The Buddha Park is probably the only unique attraction nearby but required public transport. And public transport here means sitting 1 hour in the bus for a 15km journey.
So I just walked around the town, took minimal photos and got ready for Vang Vieng. A small town 4 hours north of Vientiane (with the Mini Bus) filled with many exciting outdoor activities.
Bus to Vang Vieng
I must admit the 4 hours bus ride was quite taxing. As mentioned I have done a few bus trips through Asia already and usually I am ok with them. Usually I just get into a zone where I know I have to get from A to B and, depending on the bus driver, hoping to arrive there safely. However the road to Vang Vieng was one of the worst I have experienced.
Being landlocked, Laos is one of the world’s few remaining communist states and one of East Asia’s poorest. It is a very underdeveloped country with little general improvements. The road going north is one of the main roads however bigger parts are dirt roads with big holes that vehicles are trying to avoid. Not very pleasant that’s for sure. I have driven a few crazy roads in Europe but it is always different being the driver or being driven in a very compact mini van.
Vang Vieng
Vang Vieng is a small town north of Vientiane, on the Nam Song River in Laos. It is surrounded by striking and rather steep limestone mountains as well as plenty of caves.
I was looking forward to some hiking, river tubing and swimming in one of the Blue Lagoons. However my 3 days in Vang Vieng were quite disappointing. I quickly realised that VV is a party town and river tubing means drinking all day while sitting in the tube. Also, due to the rainy weather I wasn’t able to hike nor do other outdoor activities. That said I did manage to drive around in a super cool buggy. It was crazy fun and I came back rather dusty and dirty. Make sure you hire the bigger style because when you are in a buggy the road bumps are much more fun!
I had great fun riding the dirt back roads of Vang Vieng, passing many small villages and the mountain scenery. The weather was holding the rain until I (almost) finished, which was great. My plan was to stop at some of the lagoons and go for a swim but they looked more like dirty water holes than blue lagoons (where is the blue sky when you need it) so I gave it a miss. But I had amazing 4 hours nevertheless!
Failed to impress
I had 10 days in Laos before I could enter Vietnam (Visa from 15th Dec) and my final stop would be Luang Prabang. Without trying to rush my trip I hang around in Vang Vieng because I had nowhere else to go. Maybe it was the rain but so far Laos has failed to impress me. In addition and given the weather I took the opportunity to be super lazy throughout the stay. Except my daily walks of course to add some steps.
That said the river with the floating bars and restaurants is certainly quite unique. Most restaurants are very local and basic, serving simple and clean food cooked by families. I had the best BBQ Duck so far and I love the clear chicken soups. Vang Vieng is certainly in a make over state and I am sure it will be full of hip bars and western restaurants very soon. In the mean time it is definitely more of a ‘party town’ and I am way past those years.
Furthermore
I have also found it quite interesting that there is an entry fee to almost everything. Whether it is to swim in the Blue Lagoon, see the Water falls or cross one of the many bridges. There is a fee to pay every time. Yes, it might not be much but I would say it is only the beginning and could go overboard very soon. Because everybody is making the most out of the tourists and the cash that comes with it.
All in all I was glad to see but also to leave Vang Vieng. I am sure others might have a great time here but for me it was just a little bit too much of a ‘party town’. It wasn’t for me and the weather didn’t help either. I wonder how Luang Prabang will be?