Starting in Amman not so long ago, my trip through Jordan continued further south. After hiking in Petra and swimming in the Dead Sea, Wadi Rum was another experience I was really looking forward to. Reading about the amazing stars, the story telling by locals and the jeep tours, I couldn’t wait to go to the desert. Especially as, a few years ago, I skipped the desert trip in Oman (read here my blog), hoping that one day I would do it in Jordan. So, here I was. And one thing I knew for sure. It was going to have to be glamping in Wadi Rum. But is it really the ultimate desert experience?
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Wadi Rum Desert
Wadi Rum is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan, near the border with Saudi Arabia. Known also as the ‘Valley of the Moon’, it has long been a favourite location for Hollywood movies. From Lawrence of Arabia to The Martian and Red Planet. Apparently Wadi Rum is the closest you get to Mars without leaving the Earth.
Finding cheap accommodation in Wadi Rum is very easy, especially if you are happy to share the tent with others. Most of the hotels make the money by selling Jeep tours and camel rides, which is basically the main reason you would go to Wadi Rum. And to see the stars of course.
Personally, I like being comfortable. So I paid up and went glamping in Wadi Rum. Having my own bed and bathroom is very important to me these days.
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Glamping in Wadi Rum
You only sleep in the desert once in your lifetime, well some of us, and so I knew that for me, glamping in Wadi Rum will be special. Somehow I have the feeling I won’t be coming back to Jordan. At least not in the near future. So, staying in a luxurious, private tent with my own bathroom and a big window to enjoy the view sounded perfect. I was excited about the glamping and exploring the Valley of the Moon.
Of course, I was also looking forward to seeing the stars at night. It all sounded amazing when I read up on it and planned it. But is it really the ultimate desert experience in this apparently dreamy destination?
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Getting to Wadi Rum
From Wadi Musa I organised myself a private cab (again) to take me to Wadi Rum. I was getting used to my private transfers and felt quite spoiled. But somehow the buses either go randomly, at weird times or not at all.
So, sitting in my private cab, after two hours and a fee of 40 JOD, I arrived at the Wadi Rum visitor centre. My driver organised the timing with the accommodation, hence I didn’t have to wait long before I was sitting in the back of a Jeep, taking me to my tent and my glamping in Wadi Rum.
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The jeep tour
Originally, I booked Wadi Rum for three nights, however, due to personal reasons, I changed it to one night only. And so, as soon as I arrived at the accommodation, I was keen to check out the tours. I didn’t have to wait long. Selling the tours is part of the check-in process. All I had to do is pick the duration and the transport. Jeep or Camel.
I went for the three hour tour in the afternoon, that finishes with a sunset view. I figured three hours would be enough to explore the desert. Sitting in the back of a Jeep, with the wind and sand blowing into your face, while being thrown around due to the bumpy and sandy road, it is not something I wanted to do all day.
The three hour tour was definitely long enough and the driver stopped at various spots. From climbing rock bridges to running up a steep, sandy hill, it was clear all tourists were heading to the same locations. It was just a question of who would arrive there first. Nevertheless, it was a fun tour and afternoon. And the weather was perfect for some amazing photos.
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The dinner
After the sunset I was keen to get back to my tent, put on some warm clothes (it was still cool at night in March) and enjoy the dinner, the camp fire and the stars. Except, there weren’t any. Yes, we did get a delicious and locally cooked dinner, however, the gathering around the fire, telling the stories, seeing the stars (the sky was basically starless), didn’t happen.
Even the other guests weren’t keen to talk to anyone else. Everybody was looking at their phones, rather than engage in a conversation. Shame really. So, after dinner, feeling a little bit disappointed, I went to bed. What else do you do in a desert without a TV and Internet.
I spoke about it to the hotel manager the next day. But all he could say is sorry and that the weather wasn’t right for the camp fire. There was no explanation for the lack of the stars. It seems there is a special time of the year for them as well.
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And so..
Although I didn’t get the camp fire nor the bright stars, glamping in Wadi Rum was still a unique experience. I am glad I did it. But I don’t think I will be back. And somehow I am glad I stayed only for one night. I think it is enough. Especially if you are on a schedule. Because, unless you do the tour every day, there is not much else to do in a desert. Except walk on the sand into the nothingness. And I did plenty of that.
As I was leaving Wadi Rum the next morning, a big sandstorm and heavy rain hit at the same time. Luckily I didn’t stay. That said, knowing that others were going to Petra the same day, I realised how lucky I was to have had such great weather in Jordan.
I later heard that Petra was evacuated due to the storm.
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My Jordan trip summary
All in all I really enjoyed my trip to Jordan. The country has some beautiful landscapes, amazing history and great tourist attractions. From Petra to Wadi Rum, Jordan has a lot to offer. And when you see a street sign pointing towards the Syrian border, to Saudi Arabia or Iraq, only then do you realise where you are in the world when you are in Jordan. Yet, it is an absolute safe country to visit with many friendly and happy faces from the locals. Even though most of them are men.
What did I enjoy the most? Swimming in the Dead Sea. That was unique, amazing, and my personal ultimate experience in Jordan!
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