This time, however, I decided to make a stop on my way to Germany and explore the fascinating countries of Jordan and Israel. I couldn’t wait. I had already tried to visit them a few years earlier while travelling through Egypt, but the timing, and the weather, didn’t quite work out. It was January and simply too cold to fully enjoy the experience. This time, I wasn’t going to miss out. (Except I never made it Israel but wrote a few blog posts about Jordan). I began my Middle Eastern adventure in Jordan. Was I really going to be swimming in the Dead Sea soon?
My trip started with a visit to Amman and Jerash. Of course, Petra and Wadi Rum were also high on my list, and I’ll share those adventures in upcoming blog posts. I already had a feeling this would become one of my most unique trips yet.
Was I ready? Let’s do this..
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Traveling to Jordan
Travelling to Jordan requires a little more planning than many of the countries I usually visit. I always do my research before a trip, but Jordan had me reading far more than usual. From understanding the local culture and deciding how to get around to hiring a car, organising transport and booking hotels, there was plenty to prepare.
As a female traveller, I also wanted to make sure I respected the local customs. Dressing modestly and avoiding unnecessary attention felt important. Luckily, the weather was cool enough for long trousers and long sleeves, so that wasn’t a problem.
With everything organised, I was finally ready to begin exploring Jordan. My first stop? Amman, Jerash and the Dead Sea, including something I’d always wanted to experience: swimming in the Dead Sea.
Tip: It’s very important to get yourself the Jordan Pass before going to Jordan. It acts as a visa and entry ticket to Petra and other small sites.
Read my other blog posts about Jordan here: Hiking in Petra – the Jewel of Jordan & Glamping in Wadi Rum – the ultimate desert experience?
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Amman City
It was exciting to finally arrive in Jordan. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but I couldn’t wait to spend the next ten days exploring this fascinating country. One experience, in particular, had been on my bucket list for years – swimming in the Dead Sea.
I chose Amman, Jordan’s vibrant capital, as my base for the first three days while exploring Amman, Jerash and the Dead Sea. It turned out to be a lovely city. Rainbow Street is lined with trendy cafés, the white limestone houses climb the surrounding hills, and the traffic is wonderfully chaotic. Somehow, it all works. I immediately liked the atmosphere.
My plan was simple: hire a car in Amman and explore Jordan at my own pace. But as travel often reminds me, you can plan everything perfectly… and things still don’t go according to plan.
Read on to find out what happened in Jordan.
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From Amman to the Jerash ruins
The town of Jerash and its impressive Roman ruins sit approximately 44 km north of Amman, just a short bus ride away. Well… usually.
I decided to take the local bus from Tabarbour Bus Station, as it seemed easy enough and the journey wasn’t far. However, Jordan doesn’t really have bus timetables. You simply turn up, find the right bus and wait for it to leave. And it only leaves once it’s full.
It took almost two hours for my minibus to fill up. But considering the ticket cost just 1 JOD, I didn’t mind waiting. It simply became part of the adventure.
The archaeological site of Jerash is absolutely worth a visit. As you already know, I’ve explored plenty of Roman ruins over the years, and Jerash easily ranks among my favourites. The bright sunshine, blue skies and the rolling hills surrounding the ancient city certainly made the experience even more memorable.
What a fantastic start to my trip through Jordan.
Now… let’s get back to the bus.
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From Amman to the Dead Sea
On my second day, I planned to hire a car and visit Madaba, Mount Nebo and, of course, the Dead Sea. After all, swimming in the Dead Sea had been on my bucket list for years.
Unfortunately, after trying several car rental companies without success, I realised I would once again have to rely on local transport. I caught a bus to Madaba and from there took a taxi to the Dead Sea, making a quick stop at the Mount Nebo viewpoint along the way. I decided not to go inside, though, as there was an additional entrance fee and the Jordan Pass didn’t cover it. Paying just for the viewpoint didn’t seem worth it to me.
As expected, everyone was trying to sell me something. My taxi driver was keen to take me to a beach where he would receive a commission. Instead, after discovering that Amman Beach was closed, I chose O Beach. It turned out to be a great decision. The beach was small but idyllic, and the turquoise water looked incredibly inviting. I couldn’t wait to get in.
One thing to keep in mind is that most beaches on the Jordanian side of the Dead Sea belong to resorts, so the entrance fees can be quite expensive. At O Beach, I paid 20 JOD for entry and another 10 JOD for the buffet lunch. It was considerably cheaper than many of the surrounding resorts, and the lunch was actually delicious.
P.S. I found Madaba, the famous mosaic map of the Holy Land, and Mount Nebo a little underwhelming. They wouldn’t make my personal must-see list for Jordan. Amman, Jerash and the Dead Sea, however, absolutely would.
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Swimming in the Dead Sea
I spent the afternoon swimming in the Dead Sea, enjoying a delicious lunch and gazing across the water towards Israel. It was the perfect way to spend the day, and I would highly recommend the experience.
Swimming in the Dead Sea was incredible. Although, perhaps it should really be called floating in the Dead Sea, because you’ll spend far more time floating than actually swimming! Thanks to its extremely high salt content, around 34% salinity, making it almost ten times saltier than the ocean, the Dead Sea is famous for its therapeutic properties and has attracted visitors for thousands of years. Even in March, the water was pleasantly warm.
So, let’s get in and float!
Before you go swimming in the Dead Sea, there are a few things you should know:
- Don’t stay in the water for longer than 10–15 minutes.
- Wear swimming shoes if you have them, or walk very carefully. The salt crystals on the bottom can be surprisingly sharp. I even saw a few people with cuts on their feet.
- Don’t get the water in your eyes, and think twice before getting your hair wet. The high salt content can leave it extremely dry.
- Avoid shaving just beforehand, and don’t go into the water if you have any open cuts or wounds. Trust me—it will sting!
- Shower as soon as you get out. Although the mineral-rich water is wonderful for your skin, you don’t want the salt to remain on your body for too long.
- Don’t try to swim. Simply lie back, relax and let the water do the work. Floating effortlessly is all part of the magic—and it’s an experience you won’t forget.
And so…
… it was time to head back to Amman (this time I caught an Uber). My first few days in Jordan have been incredible and full of adventure. Although my transport plans didn’t quite work out, and I spent far more on taxis and Ubers, exploring Amman, Jerash and the Dead Sea turned out to be the perfect introduction to Jordan.
And swimming in the Dead Sea? It was every bit as unique as I had imagined and is an experience I would recommend to anyone visiting Jordan.
Next up are Petra and Wadi Rum, and I can’t wait. That said, I’m still not entirely sure how I’ll get to Petra, but I know I’ll enjoy the journey there. The landscape is unlike anything I’ve seen in a while. In fact, it reminded me a little of Oman. Which one do you think is greener?
(post 186)
