From Tokyo to Mount Fuji and from Tokyo to Kyoto, I experienced the Japanese rail system, and I’m very impressed. It certainly made getting around Japan easy during my two-week journey. From Tokyo to Mt Fuji, I caught an express train, and for my Kyoto travel experience, I took the famous bullet train from Tokyo. I booked my tickets well in advance through the Shinkansen and JR websites and settled into my first-class seat on each ride.
How I managed to manoeuvre through the enormous stations in Tokyo and Kyoto, I have no idea. So many signs in Japanese! But by leaving myself plenty of time and asking the police or information centre for help, I found the right train every time. Phew!
Small tip: Have your tickets ready in advance, along with any QR codes from your booking. Make a note of your train’s name and departure time. Amongst all the Japanese writing, the numbers helped me work out which platform to go to. Following the JR or Shinkansen signs helped as well.
But let’s go back to Mt Fuji and my Kyoto travel experience. Did I like Kyoto and the famous Gion district? I’m not so sure. Read more below…
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Mount FUJI and the Japanese experience
Heading to the famous mountain, you can book one of the many ‘homestays’ on offer for the full Japanese experience. I thought that’s what I’d booked, only to arrive at a massive hotel. Not quite what I had pictured! That said, I still enjoyed the Japanese experience, including sleeping on the floor and having a private dinner in my room. Part of the experience really!
I was initially surprised that my simple room had no separate bedroom. The staff explained that they would turn my dining area into a bedroom, aka put a mattress on the floor. I wasn’t so sure about the comfort of it all. That would be interesting! Luckily, I found a few extra mattresses in the cabinet, so I quickly added them to the layers before bedtime.
When I arrived in the mountains, it was cloudy and drizzling, with Mt Fuji nowhere in sight. So I settled into the lounge, enjoyed the free Japanese wine samples and worked on my blog post about Tokyo. Read: Best of Tokyo – hidden bars, restaurant and first impressions. The staff promised me a view in the morning, and after my night on three mattresses, I woke up to a beautiful blue sky and a clear view of Mt Fuji. Right from my balcony. It was absolutely stunning!
After breakfast I walked through the beautiful Japanese garden, took some photos and before I knew it, clouds covered Mt Fuji again. I’d planned to climb the stairs to the Chureito Pagoda, but I didn’t see the point in doing all that hard work without a mountain view at the top. So I went for a walk instead and ended up at Lake Yamanaka. Just in time for a few more photos of Mt Fuji before it disappeared behind the clouds completely.
Hiking Mt Fuji
Since I visited in early October, after the climbing season had ended, I only stayed for one night. And that was plenty for me. I really enjoyed the experience, the mountain air and the train ride. But it was time to head back to the big city. I couldn’t wait to see what Kyoto had to offer and looked forward to a memorable Kyoto travel experience. But would it live up to my expectations?
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My Kyoto travel experience
Kyoto
By the time I arrived, it was already dark, but Kyoto immediately felt much smaller than Tokyo. I didn’t notice any big high-rises, and there seemed to be fewer people around. My Kyoto travel experience started with a sense of calm that contrasted greatly with Tokyo’s energy.
I was breaking up my stay in Kyoto with a side trip to Kanazawa (more on that soon), and my first hotel choice was the luxurious Capella Hotel near the historic Gion district. And what a hotel it was! Opening in March 2026, Japanese craftsmanship is definitely meeting luxurious comfort. My kind of place and very different from my experience near Mt Fuji. Luckily! I will write about the best luxury hotels in Japan very soon!
So, after an amazing breakfast, I set off on a discovery walk through the famous Gion district. Kyoto still seemed half asleep, and I was looking forward to seeing the streets come to life later in the day. A few open restaurants, somewhere to stop for lunch and a taste of the food scene I’d heard so much about. Except somehow, it never quite happened.
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The food scene of Kyoto
I’d planned to eat my way through Kyoto after hearing so much about its food scene. However, almost every restaurant I came across was shut during the day. And the few I had my eye on that were open had long queues, with almost an hour’s waiting time. That was really disappointing. That said, I found a nice place for lunch at the end. It was a local restaurant, hidden away, and once again I sat on the floor to eat. Not very comfortable, but the food was fresh and delicious.
All in all, my Kyoto travel experience wasn’t quite what I’d expected. Somehow, to me, it wasn’t as incredible as everyone said. It felt way more touristy than Tokyo, and with everything in a smaller area, the crowds felt bigger too. Walking along the busy roads became quite annoying. The traffic felt heavier, the streets seemed dirtier, and most shops catered mainly to tourists.
Yes, Gion is historic and unique. But with so many restaurants shut – even the hotel management couldn’t explain why – it didn’t have the vibe I’d expected.
Thinking about dinner, I asked the hotel staff if they could make a reservation for me. All I really wanted was a nice soup or ramen place. However, they explained that the places I wanted to try only accepted walk-ins. So I found myself with the same dilemma at dinnertime. Small restaurants, limited seating and long queues already waiting outside. I was actually surprised at how patiently people waited.
In the end, I found a great place by chance and had an absolutely delicious duck dish. Finally!
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The bars of Kyoto
Bar hopping came with its own challenges. There were plenty of bars on offer, small and intimate like in Tokyo, but getting in was another story. Some had waiting times of over two hours. It was all quite interesting, but also frustrating. I felt I couldn’t really take in the Kyoto scene as I’d hoped. Adding the crowds, the busy roads and the tourists, somehow Kyoto wasn’t for me.
Nevertheless, Kyoto is certainly worth a visit, and the Gion district is unique and beautiful. As for me, I was glad I had my luxurious hotel to return to and unwind in after each outing. Of course, you should see Kyoto for yourself and create your own Kyoto travel experience.
On my last day, after exploring Kyoto’s centre, I rented a bike from the Capella Hotel and rode along the river for an hour. It was a beautiful sunny day, and cycling by the water was probably the best part of my time in Kyoto.
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And so…
My Kyoto travel experience reminded me a bit of my trip to Vietnam many years ago. I’d always wanted to go because I heard amazing things about it. But once I got there, I didn’t really like it. To everyone’s surprise! Oh well, not every country or city is for everyone. You have to experience it for yourself. Overall, I will always remember my Kyoto travel experience for its unique highlights and surprises. Next, it was time to head to the mountains near Kanazawa and then to Osaka.
How will Osaka compare to Tokyo and Kyoto?
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