I was back in Istanbul, Turkey’s vibrant metropolis where Europe and Asia meet. I always think you see a city differently the second time around. On my first visit to Istanbul, travelling with my dad, I had an incredible time exploring its famous sights, bustling markets and historic landmarks.
There is so much to see and do in Istanbul that one visit is never enough. Having already visited many of the city’s iconic attractions, this time I wanted to explore some of the lesser-known Istanbul neighbourhoods and discover a different side of the city.
From colourful streets and local cafés to hidden corners away from the crowds, I was curious to see whether these Istanbul neighbourhoods would make me fall in love with the city all over again. Had Istanbul changed much over the past few years? Let’s find out.
Read my shortlist of Istanbul here: Top 6 things to do in Istanbul.
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The colourful houses of Balat
I always discover a big city on foot. Walking lets me stumble across hidden streets, local cafés and neighbourhoods I would otherwise miss. Sitting in a taxi, stuck in traffic, has never appealed to me. Besides, I simply enjoy walking.
On my first day in Istanbul, I set off towards the Chora Mosque (Kariye Camii), famous for its beautiful Byzantine mosaics and frescoes. The route took me through Balat, one of the oldest and most colourful Istanbul neighbourhoods, tucked away in the Fatih district. I’d seen countless photos of its vibrant houses, so I couldn’t resist taking a detour.
I’m glad I did.
Balat turned out to be one of the prettiest neighbourhoods in Istanbul. Colourful houses lined the steep streets, cosy cafés invited me in, and before long I found myself enjoying a delicious ice cream… followed by lunch… and then another ice cream. I needed the extra energy for the uphill walk to the Chora Mosque!
As I wandered deeper into the neighbourhood, I browsed local shops and even picked up white pepper for a fraction of the price I’d seen at the Grand Bazaar. Few tourists seemed to venture this far, and I occasionally felt like an outsider. Curious locals smiled shyly as I passed, especially the children, making the experience feel even more authentic.
When I finally reached the Chora Mosque, I discovered it had closed for renovations. Disappointing? Yes. But Balat had already made the walk worthwhile.
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Istanbul – the city – Ortaköy, Nişantaşı and Taksim
On my second day in Istanbul, I headed towards Ortaköy Pier and the famous Bosphorus Bridge, which links the European and Asian sides of the city. I had planned to catch the ferry across the Bosphorus, but after seeing the next departure was more than an hour away, I hopped on the tram to Kabataş instead and continued on foot.
The walk back took me through some of my favourite Istanbul neighbourhoods. I wandered along the elegant shopping streets of Teşvikiye in Nişantaşı, before making my way towards the bustling Taksim Square. Along the way, I passed leafy parks perfect for a short break and enjoyed a delicious gözleme, the ideal fuel for another few kilometres.
I also stumbled across the impressive Aqueduct of Valens, countless mosques and endless shops. Istanbul really is a city that never seems to end. Every neighbourhood has its own character, which is exactly what makes exploring the city on foot so rewarding.
By the time I returned to my hotel, my legs definitely needed a rest. Over just two days, I had walked almost 40 kilometres. But every single step was worth it. It has been a great discovery trip of Istanbul.
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Istanbul – The Multicultural Metropolis
So, is Istanbul still worth the hype? Absolutely. After all, this is Istanbul.
That said, the city has changed since my last visit. Like many popular destinations, Istanbul seems to have made up for the quieter Covid years by increasing prices. Food, entrance fees and souvenirs all cost noticeably more, and as a tourist, you’ll certainly feel it.
Many of Istanbul’s iconic landmarks also remain under renovation, making it difficult to appreciate them in their full glory. I had hoped to revisit the Basilica Cistern, but renovation work kept it closed. The Blue Mosque also continues to undergo restoration, with parts of the building still covered by scaffolding.
One positive change is that Hagia Sophia now serves as a mosque again, so visitors no longer pay an entrance fee. However, the large green carpet covering the original marble floor changes the atmosphere inside. While I completely understand its purpose, it does take away some of the awe I remembered from my first visit. Unfortunately, the upper gallery also remained closed.
Looking back, I’m grateful I visited Istanbul a few years ago and experienced many of its famous landmarks before the restoration work began. Even so, exploring different Istanbul neighbourhoods gave me a fresh appreciation for this fascinating city. Beyond its world-famous attractions, it’s the colourful streets, local cafés and everyday life that continue to make Istanbul such a memorable destination.
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My Istanbul Trip Summary
After three days in Istanbul, I definitely felt like I’d had a workout! The city is surprisingly hilly, and exploring its many Istanbul neighbourhoods on foot quickly adds up the kilometres.
There’s no doubt that Istanbul is a must-visit destination. Its rich history, diverse neighbourhoods and vibrant atmosphere make it one of the world’s most fascinating cities. Would I return? Absolutely, but probably not for a little while. Istanbul is exciting, but it’s also intense. From the constant traffic and busy streets to the return of cruise ships and large crowds, the city never really slows down.
As much as I enjoyed discovering new Istanbul neighbourhoods and wandering through streets I’d never seen before, I realised I much prefer the slower pace of places like Antalya and Kaş. Sometimes, a little more peace and a little less hustle is exactly what I need.
I think my legs are now ready for hiking in Cappadocia!
(post 176)
