Everyone I know in Phuket who has travelled around Thailand always talks about the small hippie town of Pai. So, as I am already in Northern Thailand, and sitting just 124 kilometres north of Chiang Mai, it seemed like the perfect excuse for a road trip to Pai.
At first, 124 kilometres doesn’t sound very far. But with 762 bends along the way, the drive from Chiang Mai to Pai is anything but ordinary. The big question was: would my little scooter survive the journey? Luckily, I know how to pack light.
Tip: If you’re planning a road trip to Pai, you’ll find plenty of tips online about riding a scooter from Chiang Mai to Pai. One thing I can tell you for sure. It is an incredible ride. That said, make sure you dress for the season. At the highest point, around 1,400 metres above sea level, the temperature can be surprisingly cool, even though you’re travelling through northern Thailand.
After filling up the scooter with petrol, I set off. The road winds through countless small villages, and I was pleasantly surprised by the number of charming cafés serving excellent coffee. I guess this is coffee area in Thailand after all.
Once you get closer to the peak, the bends became tighter, the air cooler, and the views even more spectacular. Another good reason to take a break. And when you reach the Memorial Bridge from WWII, you know Pai is just around the corner.
Three hours later, after conquering all 762 curves, I finally rolled into Pai. I was relieved that both my scooter and I had made it safely.
So, what makes this little mountain town so special? Let’s find out.
…
The Pai Canyon
Pai Canyon (Kong Lan) is one of the main attractions in Pai, so I was really looking forward to visiting it. After all, I do enjoy a good hike.
On my first morning in Pai, I was up early and ready to explore Pai Canyon. However, when I arrived at 8.30 am, the mist still hung in the air and there was no view at all. That said, the fog gave the canyon a wonderfully mystical atmosphere.
The Pai Canyon hike isn’t for everyone. I hadn’t expected the trails to be so steep. I had planned to complete the full two-hour circuit, but when I reached the first narrow and slippery sections, I decided to turn back. Somehow it didn’t feel right. And I can be quite adventurous as you know. Even though I’ve tackled plenty of steep hikes in the Alps, something about the mist made me think twice before conquering Pai Canyon.
Read all my hiking trips around the world here.
…
So, instead, I decided to wait for the sun to rise high enough to burn off the mystical fog. As I sat there watching other enthusiastic hikers arrive, only to turn back at the same point, I felt a little better about my decision. I wonder if they drove from Chiang Mai to Pai on the same road?
Maybe you don’t need to complete the entire hike to fully appreciate the Pai Canyon. Even the first section offers spectacular views of the surrounding landscape and the canyon’s unique rock formations. It really is a beautiful place.
…
The Town – Road trip to Pai
What a charming little town Pai is. And yes, it definitely has a hippie vibe. The shops, bars and cafés, many of which serve breakfast all day, perfectly reflect the town’s relaxed lifestyle. Most visitors seemed young, carefree and simply enjoying the moment. They reminded me a little of my backpacking days in Australia when I was 19.
I really liked Pai. Its narrow streets, lively night markets and little artisan shops give the town a unique charm. My friends in Phuket were absolutely right, it is definitely worth a visit. So, if you’re travelling through northern Thailand, make sure you include a road trip to Pai from Chiang Mai in your itinerary.
…
Of course, Pai has plenty of other attractions besides Pai Canyon. From hot springs and waterfalls to temples and the impressive White Buddha, there’s certainly no shortage of things to see, during a road trip to Pai.
The area is also home to several elephant camps. However, after reading various articles about the treatment of the animals, I decided not to visit any of them. It’s difficult to know which sanctuaries genuinely put the elephants’ welfare first.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get to explore much more because I came down with food poisoning on my second night. The rest of my stay in Pai consisted mainly of lying in bed, resting, watching Netflix, sleeping and only venturing out for a few short walks.
Oh well… c’est la vie!
Except for a trip to the Karen Long Neck ladies. For that, a road trip from Chiang Mai to Pai is certainly worth it. Read below.
…
The Karen long neck ladies
On my last afternoon in Pai, after feeling a little better, I made the short trip to a Karen Long Neck village, just 2 km away. Karen girls begin wearing brass rings around their necks from around the age of five, with more rings added over the years until they reach adulthood. I was surprised to learn that the rings don’t actually stretch their necks. Instead, they push the collarbone and shoulders down, creating the optical illusion of a longer neck.
You can read a more detailed story about the Karen Long Neck Villages here. It’s a fascinating read and a must do on your road trip to Pai.
I also came across many articles questioning whether it’s ethical to visit Karen villages or photograph the women, suggesting it can feel as though they are being displayed for tourists. It’s certainly a complex topic, and everyone will have their own opinion.
Personally, I chose to visit respectfully. I asked before taking photos, spent time talking to the women and bought several handmade souvenirs. While paying an entrance fee to visit the village may feel unusual, I saw it as a way of contributing to the local community and supporting their livelihoods.
To me, the women seemed genuinely happy to chat with visitors, explain their crafts and sell their colourful handmade goods. Perhaps, in the end, the curiosity goes both ways. And maybe we, the tourists, are just as interesting to them. Would you go and visit the Karen village on your trip from Chiang Mai to Pai?
…
Chiang Mai to Pai summary
All in all, my road trip to Pai was an unforgettable experience, and it’s a place I’ll definitely return to. The same goes for Chiang Mai. I really enjoyed this part of northern Thailand and would love to explore even more of it next time, beyond Pai Canyon and the town itself.
It’s such a different experience from the beach lifestyle in Phuket, and that’s exactly what makes Thailand such a fascinating country to explore.
And hopefully, next time, I’ll manage to avoid the food poisoning! Because I might do another road trip to Pai very soon.
(post 184)
