After exploring many of the ancient ruins east and south of Izmir (I’ll be writing about the southern sites soon), it’s time to head north. Next on my itinerary are three of Turkey’s most famous archaeological sites: Troy, Pergamon and Assos.
But after seeing so many impressive ruins already, I couldn’t help but wonder: are these ancient cities really worth the drive? More importantly, between Troy, Pergamon and Assos, which one is actually the best to visit?
Each site has its own claim to fame. Troy is world-famous thanks to Homer’s Iliad and the legendary Trojan Horse. Pergamon was once one of the greatest cities of the ancient world, home to a spectacular hilltop acropolis and one of history’s largest libraries. Assos, meanwhile, combines impressive Greek ruins with breathtaking Aegean Sea views from its peaceful hilltop setting.
Since Troy is the furthest north, it would have been a long drive just for one archaeological site. Instead, I decided to turn the journey into a mini road trip and explore a few places along the way.
My first stop? A two-day detour to the charming coastal town of Çeşme, just west of Izmir. With its picturesque harbour, relaxed atmosphere and beautiful beaches, it was the perfect place to slow down before continuing my hunt for more ancient ruins.
Now the real question is: will Troy, Pergamon or Assos become my favourite? Let’s find out.
Read hear about my latest favourite, Kibyra: Kibyra – the amazing Ancient Greek City in Turkey
Çeşme
…
So, which one is best…
Troy, Pergamon and Assos – first up…
The Acropolis of Pergamon
I actually visited Bergama on my previous trip to Turkey. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans. It was cold, rainy and far from ideal for exploring the Acropolis of Pergamon. Instead, I cautiously drove up the incredibly steep and narrow road to the entrance, took one look at the gloomy skies, and decided to turn around. I did, however, visit the smaller but fascinating Pergamon Asclepion. (You can read more about that in my post: Pamukkale and Hierapolis – Driving in Turkey.)
This time, the weather couldn’t have been more different. Bright sunshine replaced the rain, but the road to the top hadn’t changed one bit. It was still just as steep and narrow as I remembered. Meeting half a dozen taxi drivers coming downhill at the same time, with nowhere to pull over, certainly kept things interesting! Perhaps I should take the cable car next time, it would definitely be the safer option. But then again, where’s the adventure in that?
Once I finally reached the top, I was reminded why Pergamon is considered one of Turkey’s most impressive ancient cities. Perched high above modern Bergama, the Acropolis of Pergamon offers spectacular panoramic views in every direction. Looking out over the valley, it’s easy to understand why the ancient Greeks chose this dramatic hilltop as the site for one of the most powerful cities of Mysia.
Beyond the breathtaking scenery, wandering through the ruins of Pergamon is like stepping back in time. Once a wealthy and influential kingdom, it was home to magnificent temples, palaces, libraries and one of the steepest ancient theatres ever built. Even after visiting many archaeological sites around Izmir, Pergamon immediately stood out as one of the most memorable. It was certainly impressive!
Read more about the history of Bergama here.
…
The trip continues…
Further north, about 160 km from Pergamon, lies the ancient city of Assos, perched above the charming village of Behramkale. The drive took almost three hours, passing through many small towns, so I stopped overnight near Ayvalık, a popular coastal resort. And not my favourite place at all.
But, the Troy Pergamon and Assos comparison is still on. Which one is best?
…
The Temple of Assos
Once I parked my car, walking up the narrow cobble stone streets through the village is quite cute. And with plenty of tourist shops along the way, it seems like it is quite a popular tourist spot. Although I was early enough to avoid them.
I didn’t spend much time walking around the ancient site of Assos, only stopping to take a few photos of the Temple of Athena (daughter of Zeus and the goddess of wisdom) and its beautiful backdrop. With its incredible sea views, I can understand why this spot was chosen for her temple. I loved it too, although it was a bit windy.
But lets continue on which one is best to see? Troy, Pergamon and Assos?
The ’legendary’ ruins of Troy
To see or not to see? That was the big question I had about Troy. It sits far to the north and isn’t really on the way to anywhere, so visiting meant driving all the way up from Izmir and then turning around to drive back again. The real question was: was Troy worth it?
As soon as I entered the site, I was greeted by a large wooden Trojan Horse. Of course. There was even a room showing the film Troy. Nice enough, but before visiting I realised I knew surprisingly little about the city’s real history. Like many people, my knowledge mostly came from the movie and the famous battle between Hector (Eric Bana) and Achilles (Brad Pitt).
After reading the information panels, I discovered that Troy was inhabited for thousands of years, from around 3000 BC to AD 500. Over time, new settlements were built on top of the old ones, creating what archaeologists now refer to as the ten cities of Troy. That was by far the most fascinating part of the visit.
The rest of the site follows a walking trail past excavated walls, foundations and layers of ancient stone. While historically significant, there aren’t many standing structures left, so much of the experience relies on your imagination. And it’s a shame that I have to follow a path. Coming from all the previous ruins, walking around freely and creating fun photos, this was a little bit too boring for me. Sorry Troy.
And so…
So, was it worth it? Not for me. But I had to do it. It is Troy after all. And we all know the movie. I will call this trip, driving north of Izmir, a detour to Troy. Because there is not many other reasons to go that way.
Either way, I have seen new things, learned along the way, explored more of Turkey’s countryside and have now seen Troy. I am glad I did this trip. I can now tick it off. Let’s go back to Izmir.
Troy, Pergamon and Assos.. which one is best?
So, between Troy, Pergamon and Assos… which one is best to see? I would have to say Pergamon. For me this site is the clear winner. And I would highly recommend to take the cable car to get up there. You might even get some great views along the way.
As for me, after 8 days of driving almost 2000 km, circling Izmir in all directions, seeing lots and lots of ruins, it was time to return the car and jump on a bus to Antalya. 6.5 hours! I can’t wait to be back there.
Read my new Antalya Blog about ‘The Best of Antalya – my favourite spot in Turkey’. xxx
(post 173)
