After all the amazing cycling along the Loire River Valley, the next stop was the Gardens of Versailles and the Seine River. For this part of the trip, I based myself for three nights in a lovely little country guesthouse between Rouen and Paris. It was an ideal location to explore both Versailles and the Seine by bicycle. The area offered quiet country roads and scenic routes in every direction.
The weather forecast looked promising too. A Sahara heatwave had settled over France, bringing endless sunshine. Temperatures were well above 35°C. It would make for some hot cycling. However, it also provided perfect conditions to experience this beautiful part of France on two wheels.
Read my blog about my last cycling trip here: Cycling the La Loire river path
Cycling the Seine River
Although there are plenty of websites promoting the Seine River cycling route, which stretches for around 700 kilometres, the reality is that much of the route follows ordinary roads. There are fewer dedicated cycle paths than you might expect.
After my first ride near my guesthouse and around Mantes-la-Jolie, I quickly discovered that cycling on busy French roads wasn’t much fun. So it was time for Plan B: drive the car to where the best cycling sections started. Then begin each ride from there. It turned out to be the perfect solution for both cycling trips. Sometimes the best travel experiences come from being spontaneous and adapting your plans as you go. Agree?
P.S. I found this website was the most informative and detailed about the bike routes (after plenty of research).
…
Cycling around Rouen
As I enjoyed Rouen so much, I decided to explore the city and the Seine River by bike. The Seine River cycling routestarts about 7km south of Rouen, so I parked my car there and began my ride.
Cycling towards and through Rouen was easy and enjoyable. The next 45 minutes, however, were a different story. Although there was a designated bike path, it passed through a 13km industrial area. Large trucks were constantly crossing the route. The cycle path itself was dirty, poorly maintained, full of bumps, and lacked clear signage. It certainly wasn’t the idyllic Seine River cycling route I had expected. It made me wonder whether some of France’s famous bikeways are a little overrated.
I was close to turning back, but I’m glad I didn’t. Once I cleared the industrial area, the ride completely changed. The route took me past rows of cherry trees before opening onto beautiful views of the Seine Valley. There were charming villages, pretty riverside homes and impressive white chalk cliffs rising in the background. It was a stunning, peaceful landscape. From there the bike path was in much better condition.
After cycling back, I enjoyed one final stroll through Rouen before returning to my country guesthouse. P.S. Read my other blog post about the pretty towns of France here – Le Mont Saint Michel, Rouen and Normandy’s D-Day coastline
Cycling the Gardens of Versailles was next!
…
Cycling the Gardens of Versailles
It was really enjoyable cycling along the Seine River near Rouen, but I was even more excited about cycling around the Gardens of Versailles. I parked the car just a few kilometres from the gardens. This made it an easy starting point for the ride.
The Gardens of Versailles (Jardins du Château de Versailles) cover almost 800 hectares. This makes them one of the largest and most spectacular formal gardens in the world. There is plenty of space to spend hours exploring by bike, which is exactly what I did. I even tried to find an exit at the far end of the gardens, only to discover that the gate I eventually reached was closed!
I was lost in the Gardens of Versailles. Who would have thought!
The beautifully manicured gardens directly behind the Palace of Versailles are reserved for pedestrians, so bicycles are not allowed. This stunning area, with its colourful flower parterres, elegant fountains, classical sculptures and perfectly trimmed hedges, is enormous in its own right. It was a little disappointing not to be able to cycle through it. However, I simply parked my bike and explored it on foot instead. It was well worth the walk.
You might be wondering whether I also visited Paris, considering it is only about 20 kilometres from Versailles. I’ve been to Paris several times before, so I decided to save it for another trip. This visit was all about cycling the Gardens of Versailles and exploring a different side of the region.
Cycling in France – Summary
Although some of the bike paths don’t quite compare with the quality found in Germany or the Netherlands, I really enjoyed cycling in this part of France. You do have to spend a little more time researching the best routes. Even so, the beautiful scenery makes the extra effort worthwhile.
Cycling the Gardens of Versailles is a fantastic way to explore this magnificent estate. Once you find the right sections, the Seine River cycling route offers some equally rewarding scenery. Overall, it was another memorable cycling adventure in France.
And so, after one final morning ride near Banthelu, where my guesthouse was located, it was time to head towards Le Havre to catch the ferry to England. Of course, I couldn’t resist making one last detour to the spectacular coastal cliffs of Étretat before leaving France.
And let me tell you something… after cycling almost 680 kilometres over the past month, my bike seat is finally broken in. Or maybe it’s my bum that’s finally adjusted! Either way, I’m now comfortable in the saddle and more than ready for the next cycling adventure.
(post 102)
