With a few sunny days finally appearing after a rather wet month, it was time to get back on my bike and keep practicing for my 2,600 km cycling journey across Germany. However, cycling in the Fichtelgebirge (Franconian Forest), surrounded by endless hills (you can read more about that in my previous blog – Spring in Germany), I was keen to find a flat route for my long cycling journey. I was keen to avoid hills at all costs. The obvious solution? Follow a river. Luckily, Germany has no shortage of beautiful rivers, from the Danube and the Rhine to the Main River Cycling Path (Main River Radweg). So, let’s go!
The Main River Cycling Path had been on my list for a while. Winding through Franconia’s vineyards, historic towns, and peaceful riverside landscapes, it promised exactly what I needed at this stage of my trip. A scenic ride with fewer hills and plenty of opportunities to discover places I might otherwise have missed.
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Cycling in Germany
Germany is a wonderful country for cycling. No matter where you go, there’s almost always a dedicated cycle path nearby. They are exceptionally well signposted, guiding you through beautiful countryside, alongside rivers, and through countless small, idyllic German towns.
Along the way, you’ll meet plenty of fellow cyclists who are always happy to help with directions or simply chat about their own journey. On the rare occasions when you do need to ride on the road, drivers are generally very considerate and aware of cyclists, giving you plenty of space when overtaking.
That said, not every traffic jam is caused by cars. Sometimes, you find yourself delayed by a flock of sheep crossing the road instead.
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Main River cycling path (‘Radweg’)
The Main River Cycling Path (Main River Radweg) is one of Germany’s most popular long-distance cycling routes. Stretching for around 600 km, it follows the River Main from its source near Bischofsgrün in the Fichtelgebirge – where my dad lives – all the way across the country to Mainz, passing picturesque Franconian wine towns, the city of Würzburg, Frankfurt, and countless scenic riverside villages along the way.
There are plenty of organised tours available if you prefer someone else to take care of the planning. Alternatively, you can simply choose your own starting point and cycle as much, or as little, of the route as you like. That’s exactly what I decided to do.
I chose to ride a stretch of the Main River Cycling Path from the charming wine town of Kitzingen towards Würzburg before turning around and cycling back. It seemed like the perfect introduction to one of Germany’s most beautiful riverside cycle routes. This is a beautiful part of Germany, and absolutely no hills in sight.
This wouldn’t be my only time on the Main River Cycling Path. A few months later, I would find myself cycling this very route again as part of my 2,600 km journey across Germany. Read here – Off to Spain. Cycling the Main River Cycling Path.
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Kitzingen to Würzburg (70km)
It turned out to be a fantastic ride and one of my favourite sections of the Main River Cycling Path.
The 1st of May greeted me with glorious sunshine and, as it was a public holiday in Germany, plenty of people had the same idea: get outside and enjoy the day. I parked my car in Kitzingen, unpacked my bike, and set off along the Main River Cycling Path (Main River Radweg). Würzburg was about 30 km away, and my plan was to spend some time exploring the city before cycling back.
Unfortunately, things didn’t quite go as planned.
The closer I got to Würzburg, the busier the cycle path became. Large groups of teenagers were gathering along the riverside to celebrate the holiday, and while they were clearly having a great time, it made cycling rather challenging. There were plenty of other cyclists on the route, all weaving carefully through the crowds in a constant stop-and-go rhythm.
Rather than push on into an even busier city centre, I decided to turn around just before reaching Würzburg. It seemed like the better option, and after all, I knew I’d have another chance to visit the city during my 2,600 km cycling journey across Germany.
By the time I returned to Kitzingen, my bike computer showed just over 70 km. I was pleasantly tired, happy to have completed my first river ride, and even more convinced that cycling in Germany is one of the best ways to explore the country.
Let’s do it again!
Nürnberg – Bamberg – Kulmbach – Thiersheim (227km)
Another week, another cycling trip. When I told my family I was planning to cycle from Nürnberg, after a family day together, all the way to Thiersheim (home), they didn’t quite believe me. Covering 227 km over three days sounded rather ambitious, but I was determined to give it a go.
And what a journey it turned out to be. Was it challenging? Absolutely. The toughest part came on the final day, climbing towards Bischofsgrün at around 670 metres above sea level before continuing on to Thiersheim. Was it worth it? Without a doubt.
Leaving Nürnberg, I followed the Main–Danube Canal Cycle Path towards Bamberg. The route was wonderfully flat, easy to follow, and perfect for settling into the rhythm of a long-distance cycling tour. It gave me the chance to enjoy the scenery without worrying too much about steep climbs or navigation.
By the time I rolled into Bamberg, I had completed the first day of my adventure. Only two more days to go!
Day 2
The second day brought me back to the Main River Cycling Path, taking me through the beautiful towns of Lichtenfels and Kulmbach. Both are well worth a visit, with their charming old centres and relaxed Franconian atmosphere.
After 93 km, I finally arrived in Himmelkron, where I had booked a hotel for the night. It was the longest ride I had ever done on a bicycle so far. And I was pretty proud of myself. (Afterword: on my long cycling journey I would cycle up to 130km a day for a few days in a row)
The route itself was a joy to cycle. The Main River Cycling Path led me through peaceful countryside, alongside the river, and through countless picturesque villages. It was a comfortable, easy-going ride that allowed me to simply enjoy the journey.
That said, even the most comfortable saddle has its limits. By the end of the day, I could definitely feel every single one of those 93 kilometres. No pain, no gain, right? How would I go on the long journey??
Day 3
The third day was the shortest in terms of distance, but by far the toughest. To reach the Fichtelgebirge, there was no way around it, I had to climb.
From Bad Berneck, the route gradually wound its way uphill towards Bischofsgrün and the beautiful Fichtelsee. The climb stretched over roughly 10 km, so although it was long, the gradient was steady enough to make it manageable. Slow and steady became my motto for the morning.
Reaching the top felt incredibly rewarding. Once I arrived in Bischofsgrün, I knew the hardest part was behind me. After a short stop at the picturesque Fichtelsee, a lovely lake nestled in the heart of the Fichtelgebirge, near the summit of the Ochsenkopf I knew, the route would be mostly downhill towards my dad’s home in Thiersheim from now on.
With the finish now in sight, the final 15 km passed by surprisingly quickly. I rolled into Thiersheim tired but incredibly satisfied
What have I learned so far…
What a journey! As soon as I got off my bike, it was time for a well-deserved ice cream. This first multi-day cycling trip was everything I had hoped for and left me even more excited for what was to come. My 2,600 km cycling adventure across Germany was just around the corner.
Although I had a bicycle when I was younger, it had been years since I had ridden regularly. I had never cycled long distances or spent multiple days in the saddle. In many ways, I was starting as a complete beginner.
So, what have I learned so far?
- You don’t need to be a professional cyclist. If I could do it, almost anyone with a reasonable level of fitness can.
- Take breaks. Stopping for coffee, cake, or simply to enjoy the view makes the journey much more enjoyable.
- Comfort matters. A well-fitted bike, padded cycling shorts, and a comfortable saddle make a huge difference on longer rides.
- Trust the cycle paths. Germany has an outstanding cycling network, and following the signposts is often all you need.
- Don’t rush. The best memories come from the unexpected stops, the conversations with fellow cyclists, and the small villages you discover along the way.
- Every climb has a reward. Whether it’s a stunning view or a long downhill afterwards, the hard work is always worth it.
Most importantly, I learned that long-distance cycling isn’t just about getting from A to B. It’s about slowing down, noticing the places in between, and discovering just how much you can achieve one pedal stroke at a time.
So, whether you are planning to follow the Main River Cycling Path, explore another scenic river route, or even challenge yourself with a ride through the mountains, I can highly recommend cycling in Germany.
It is such a wonderful way to explore the country at your own pace, discover small towns you might otherwise miss, and enjoy the landscapes in a completely different way. Trust me, you will love it.
… and that is definitely the best part about this journey!
(post 94)
